Until recently, the Netherlands’ northernmost province wasn’t exactly known for its gourmet food and fine wines. Even the Dutch language uses the term Bourgondisch to refer to the luxurious dining in the south of the country. But now, Frisian chefs and wine makers are returning to their roots, recognising the quality of produce from land and sea that Friesland provides, and starting their own quiet wijn-spijs revolution.
Five gourmet things to do in Friesland
1 Tour and taste at Friesland’s wineries
Forget English sparkling. Frisian “Brûswyn” is the next northern European wine to watch. In Friesland, there are two wineries you can visit – both of which offer variations on vineyard tours and wine tastings. Note that you’ll want to be in Friesland on a Friday and/or Saturday, since they’re both only open to the public on these two days.
The northernmost vineyard in the Netherlands, Wijngaard de Frysling offers tours and tastings during the summer months (these are extremely popular so book well in advance).
But it’s also possible to stop by, have a wander through the vines and pick up a bottle or two from the shop. There are several sparklings on offer, from Brut Nature to Brut (which refers to sweetness level), both white and rosé, and both traditional (Champagne) method and tank (Prosecco) method. Frysling also makes white, rosé and red still wines from various lesser-known grapes, including Solaris, Souvignier Gris, Cabernet Cortis and Pinotin. There’s lots to taste!
Further south, close to border with Flevoland, you’ll find Wijndomein de Heideplaats offering a smaller selection of wines but plenty of charm. On arrival, you can pick up a map and information and take a self-guided tour of the vineyards (growing Solaris, Riesel and Johanniter white grapes and Regent red grapes) before stopping for a drink on the terrace.
On a sunny day, surrounded by lavender bushes, de Heideplaats feels like a little slice of Provence. Their “Vespers” white wine is a citrussy, floral blend of the three white grapes mentioned above that’s more full-bodied than you’d expect. Generally, de Heideplaats makes red and rosé wines from their Regent grapes, but last year’s harvest didn’t allow for a 2023 vintage.
Wijndomein de Heideplaats also has a bed & breakfast, which would make a relaxing place to stay and an ideal jumping off point for the rest of this itinerary.
2 Splash out on Frisian fine dining
Handily located in Wergea, equidistant from both wineries, Oan Tafel serves up modern, creative, fine dining using local Frisian ingredients. Take a seat at the open kitchen to watch the chefs at work, and settle in for a four-, six- or eight-course fixed menu.
Look forward to dishes like “harder tartare met blote billetjes in het gras” – a full-flavoured interpretation of raw mullet served with thinly sliced runner beans, cream of cannellini, bean bouillon, ginger oil, puffed wild rice and a tiger milk foam. As you’d expect, you’ll pay for all this (six courses cost €86 per person before drinks) – but the quality is worth the price tag.
What’s more, Oan Tafel serves some of Frysling’s wines at the restaurant. For example, their “Brûswyn Johanniter” is a traditional method sparkling wine using cool-climate-resilient Johanniter grapes: combining crisp apples and pears with soft brioche and a creamy mousse, it makes a perfect aperitif.
3 Enjoy tapas time
For those with a smaller budget but a large appetite, head to Grou and book a table at the always-popular Herman Serveert. This family business run by a charismatic Uruguayan owner and his Dutch-Uruguayan daughter calls itself a tapas restaurant, although it’s a fusion of flavours that are very different from Spanish tapas. There’s no menu to speak of: everyone gets several rounds of both cold and warm dishes, and the only choice you have to make is whether you take dessert as well.
Cold dishes include white gazpacho, toasts topped with chickpea pâté and spicy pepper cream cheese, little glasses filled with smoked salmon, shrimps and dilly sour cream, summery orzo salad, Spanish olives and salted almonds.
Warm dishes comprise whole gambas with samphire, teriyaki-style chicken, and a grand finale of steak cooked medium-rare skewered with a slice of tortilla and a Padron pepper in a creamy thyme sauce. The food is fantastic value at €35 per person, while wine prices are also reasonable (even if you go for the top end of the wine list with an oaky-yet-tropical white Rioja). You certainly won’t go hungry!
4 Visit a kaasboerderij
While in Friesland, you’re going to want to shop for some of the fantastic produce you’ve been tasting during your trip. Drive over to Kaasboerderij de Deelen, along the road between Aldeboarn and Tijnje, and stop at the farm shop for all sorts of homespun cheeses: creamy Gouda-style, fresh sheep’s cheese, pungent smoked cheese and their signature “Riperkrite Tsiis”, made with a blend of celery, chives and garlic. Not to mention the Frisian smoked sausage and various other local products.
5 Shop for a special bottle
If Frisian wine has won you over, you can buy more of it plus several other speciality local liqueurs – including Frisian whisky, limoncello, Beerenburg and bitters – from Silersshop in Grou. But there are plenty of international bottles too: the friendly staff at this boozy treasure trove can advise you on wines from Europe and further afield to suit the occasion (or indeed the type of cheese you’ve just bought).
Where (else) to eat
If you’re looking for something lighter at lunchtime, you’ll of course find the usual array of cosy eetcafés in Friesland. Try Kromme Knilles in Akkrum for an own-brewed tripel beer and a “12 uurtje” lunch special: featuring mustard soup, a beef kroket and smoked rib-eye carpaccio for just €14.50.
Or go full American-style burger at Bartele’s Diner, right next to Grou train station: they serve a range of hearty burgers, excellent chips and tasty beers. Try one of the Frisian craft beers: the Bartele Farmhouse Ale (easy drinking with a touch of pepperiness) or the Koningshert Amber Ale (fruity and unfiltered).
How to get there
While many of the towns in Friesland have train stations with regular routes running to the major cities, you’ll need a car to drive to the wineries and cheese farm.
Anything else
If you have more than a couple of days to spend in Friesland, take a look at our tips for the city of Harlingen or go Wadden Sea island hopping off the Frisian coast.
